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Cheap Home Linux Server on mini ITX board
Author / Автор: Sergey Satskiy
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| Component | Seller and Price |
|---|---|
| Mother board Intel D945GCLF2 | allstarshop.com, $91.50 |
| Memory Kingston 2GB KVR533D2N4 with CAS latency 4 | newegg.com, $20.99 |
| Case APEX MW-100 | newegg.com, $85.99 |
| WiFi карта 802.11 b/g Gigabyte GN-WP01GS | newegg.com, $16.99 |
| Keyboard Inland mini USB 89 keys | microcenter.com, $9.99 |
Total price including taxes and delivery made up $256.61.
Here are the mother board specs:
I did not buy a hard disk drive. I had a 2.5 disk which was bought 2 years ago. The disk is made by Fujitsu and has an IDE interface. I also decided not to buy an optic disk drive. It would add about 45 dollars and was to be used just once at the moment of the operating system installation. It also consumes some power from the PSU and takes some space inside a small case. So I decided to install the operating system over a network using a Transcend flash drive which I already had as a startup device. It is virtually impossible to avoid a keyboard usage at the installation time so the cheapest of the very small keyboards was bought. The Inland keyboard is simply awful it coups with the job to enter answers on a few questions. My Sharp LC-46D64U played a role of a temporary monitor. The TV has a VGA input wich supports resolutions up to 1600 by 1200. A Logitech Nano V450 borrowed from a notebook played a role of a temporary mouse.
The first problem appeared right here. The mother board has one PCI extension slot however the case is not supposed to have any extention boards installed. There are not cuts on the case back side. What is much worse is that an external power supply socket is located very close to the place where extention boards could have been installed.
Any modifications including those which I made will void a manufacturer guarantee. I am obviously not responsible for anything happened to your hardware if you decide to reproduce what I did.
I resolved the problem as follows. A metal stub was detached from the board. Two LEDs which are assembled as a single component were desoldered with a help of a low power solder iron.That low power solder was not capable to desolder the antenna socket. The socket has five soldering points and is massive so it is impossible to heat all the points to the required temperature simultaneously using a low power solder iron. It is also not very easy to keep finger not burned as soon I don't have the proper equipment.
A more power soldering iron - a simple but with a power regulator from 0 to 50 Wt - was purchased via amazon.com on parts express. Soldering iron holder and delivery costed another $32.75. These expences could be excluded because the soldering iron is a reusable thing however I provide the numbers to give the whole picture.
The more powerful soldering iron was able to desolder the antenna socket. I moved the socket to the left side of the case. This required to enlarge a bit one of the existed holes. The wires to connect the socket to the board I bought in radio shack for another $7.
Having the described modifications done the WiFi board was successfully installed. I decided not to connect LEDs at all.
The mother board is almost ideal except of a few minor and one important drawback. Here are the minor things:
The motherboard important drawback is in its north bridge.
The CPU has a passive cooling. The aluminium heatsink is attached with a help of an unreliable spring. So if you touch the heatsing just slightly it moves and breaks the thermo paste contact I believe.
The north bridge is so hot that its aluminium heatsink has a fan 4010H12S NF1 manufactured by T&T. The heatsink is also attached with a help of a not reliable spring. The fan is of 40x40x10 mm size and is so noisy that kills a dream about a silent computer. The motherboard has two sockets to power up fans. The first one - called CPU fan - is not controlled. Intel insists to attach the bridge fan to this socket. The other socket - called System fan - is controlled via BIOS settings and can be set from 50% to 100% with the step of 10%.
My first attempt was to replace the bridge fan to a less noisy one. I bought Evercool EC4010M12CA. The noise level was reduced but still not to the desirable level. I also tried to install a 50 mm fan to a side of the case however it did not help.
The detailed review of the case revealed a solution. There is some spare space where an optical disk drive was supposed to be installed. That space is almost above the north bridge. The space is about 12 mm hight which is not too much and about 120 mm width. It is not very easy to find a low profile but wide fan on the market. I found just one - Kaze Jyu Slim 100mm 1,000RPM. It costed me $10.50.
It was necessary to make holes in the top of metal ODD holder. The fan was attached by plastic stripes and connected to the CPU fan socket. That helped. The noise disappeared. A COMCAST cable equipment produces more noise than my server.
I installed Linux from the network using a 4 GB USB stick (manufactured by Transcend) that has survived a wash in a trourses pocket. A smaller stick would also be completely enough.
At the beginning Fedora 10 Net Install package was installed on the flash using Unetbootin on one of my notebooks.
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Then the boot sequence was modified in BIOS and the proper type of USB storage devices emulation was set. A boot device will not be found at the motherboard startup if the wrong emulation type is set.
I doubted that the WiFi boards would work at the installation time so I connected the motherboard to my WiFi router Westell 7500 using a regular Ethernet cable.
After the installer is loaded the URL to be used for loading packages must be provided. The list of active mirrors can be seen here: http://mirrors.fedoraproject.org/publiclist. There is nothing special any further - a disk must be partitioned, packages must be selected and it'll take time to complete the installation.
As soon as the installation is finished it makes sense to remove USB drives from the boot sequence in BIOS.
| Equipment | Description |
|---|---|
| WiFi | Works out of the box |
| VGA | Works out of the box. I tested two resolutions: 1024x768 and 1600x1200. |
| S-Video output | Did not try |
| USB | Works out of the box |
| SPDIFF | Did not try |
| IDE interface | Works out of the box |
| SATA2 | Did not try |
| Parallel port | Did not try |
| RS232 | Did not try |
| Ethernet | Works out of the box |
| PS/2 keyboard and mouse ports | Did not try |
| Audio | Did not try |
| Mic | Did not try |
I have doubts that S Video works among the equipment that was not tested and I am pretty sure that the rest works fine.
I wanted to have access to my server via Internet. A free dynamic DNS service made it possible. I registered on the dyndns.com server and acquainted a domain name. It would be very convenient if the WiFi router updates the current IP address as soon as it is changed. My Westell 7500 provided by Verizon has such a support however it uses special keys to exchange information with the dynamic DNS server while the exchange based on user name and password is not supported. dyndns.com supports both ways and keys service is paid while username/password based exchange is free.
The solution is to check the current IP periodically and update it if the change is detected. I used the following way to check the current IP address:
#!/bin/bash
/usr/bin/curl -s http://checkip.dyndns.org | /bin/awk '{print $6}' | \
/bin/awk ' BEGIN { FS = "<" } { print $1 } '
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If the address is changed then the IP address is updated using the inadyn utility. This functionality was wrapped into a python script which runs every hour. It is also necessary to remember that if there were no changes within a month then dyndns.com deletes an account. To avoid it the inadyn should be run once a month unconditionally. Too often runs of the inadyn utility are not good either because dyndns.com will block the account in this case.
As a result of the actions described above the selected domain name will have an IP address of the router external interface. There is one more thing to do. It is to setup port forwarding on the router to the Linux server and back. I did it for ssh service.
It is necessary to say that it is not such a good idea to forward more ports than are really required. As soon as I forwarded port 22 I realized that some people started a process of guessing root passwords on my Linux server. The process is endless and comes from different hosts.
The temperature of the CPU, north bringe and inside the case is not good. lmsensors works smoothly on the motherboard and here is what they report:
[swift@sanki ~]$ sensors smsc47m192-i2c-0-2d Adapter: SMBus I801 adapter at 2000 +2.5V: +2.53 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +3.32 V) VCore: +1.15 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +2.99 V) +3.3V: +3.32 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +4.38 V) +5V: +5.05 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +6.64 V) +12V: +12.06 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +15.94 V) VCC: +3.32 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +4.38 V) +1.5V: +1.57 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +1.99 V) +1.8V: +1.77 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +2.39 V) Chip Temp: +44.0?C (low = -127.0?C, high = +127.0?C) CPU Temp: +64.0?C (low = -127.0?C, high = +127.0?C) Sys Temp: +55.0?C (low = -127.0?C, high = +127.0?C) cpu0_vid: +2.050 V smsc47m1-isa-0680 Adapter: ISA adapter fan1: 0 RPM (min = 1280 RPM, div = 4) ALARM fan2: 1153 RPM (min = 1280 RPM, div = 4) ALARM |
The CPU is the hottest item. I am not too sure though that the CPU temperature is not misplaced with the bridge temperature because the bridge is hotter on touch.
The temperature is high however the system is stable and I did not notice any failures. The Intel's documentation states that the max CPU temperature is 82.5 C. I noticed max 70 C once. There is some gap to the maximum but it would be nice to make the overall temperature lower.
It is possible to replace aluminium heatsinks on the CPU and on the bridge with better copper onces. Enzotech sells some suitable: CNB-R1 for the bridge and CNB-S1 for CPU. They must be better but I am a bit tired of customizing and it costs more money. By the way Intel did not make holes in the mainboard for better holding heatsinks and this looks strange for me. Was that a huge saving for Intel?
I like what I have at the end. I spent accepted money, the size, look and noise level is very good. The system performance is enough for me. Some web sites reviews also analyse power consumption of the similar systems and it is very competitive. I don't pay for the electricity separately because my rent pay includes everything however when I move the power consumption may became a factor.
I am a bit warried about hard disk drive reliability. The disk I used is the usual one for notebooks and might not be purposed for non stop working. When it dies I will replace it with something like Hitachi cinema star series drive which is purposed for non stop working. Meantime I use my USB stick for backup copies of my SVN repository.
Nevertheless if I knew how many efforts I would have to spend on modifying the components I would not start. I would rather wait for other Atom chipsets. The announced NVidia chipset seems to be attractive.